GTA Online's slot machines are rigged and the NPCs are

are gta slot machines rigged

are gta slot machines rigged - win

A review of various GTA V mod menus ( Disturbed, Luna, 2Take1, Impulse, etc. )

I will be reviewing these mod menu's as a normal user, so things such as protection testing, kicking, or crashing will not be covered too much as I do not encounter those situations too much.
If you would like me to talk about a feature about a certain mod menu that I own, feel free to leave a message at the comments and I will review it for you. I have tried to be as unbiased as I can when reviewing these mod menus so that it can help you guys make a decision about which mod menu you may get.
​
Disturbed: (Basic costs around $10, VIP costs another $20)
By far the mod menu with the best support, extremely professional and quick to respond to your issues. The mod menu itself is kind of unstable at times, but is one of the best budget mod menu’s priced at around $10 for a lot of features that improves your gameplay experience along with powerful recovery features which has a lot of recovery options, as far as I know, I think the unlocks are unrivalled, with the most unlocks options I have seen in a mod menu. Disturbed has very quick updates, normally releasing a public beta testing version within a few days and finish the beta testing in around a week for normal access to be restored for the basic users. The mod menu has options for just about anything in the game, some are implemented kind of poorly such as ‘drift mode’ which instantly activates upon activation, which is kind of difficult to use practically and the vehicle boost function which increases or decreases in increments of 1 instead of 10, making it quite difficult to change the speed quickly. I would say the protections are quite good from what I have heard, but not as good as some other mod menu’s such as Luna. Not too sure about that as I have never really used Disturbed’s protections before. Overall, I would recommend this mod menu as it is quite cheap to get the basic version and the support team is extremely quick and professional. A new update is coming to Disturbed which should address the crashing issues that some people are going through with the mod menu.
Luna: (Price locked at $27)
Luna is a very good mod menu which packs many features for its price. It has some of the best kicks and crashes (aside from Cherax) and some of the best protections for a public mod menu. Priced at $27, it has features for trolling, recoveries, and generally having fun as this is one of the most stable mod menus I have ever used. Using this mod menu in missions is easy and provides little to no issues with the protections off. The report blocking feature also makes sure that you can maintain a good account reputation ( not that it really matters too much anymore ). It also includes features such as loading story mode mods with a ScriptHookV loader and load in custom vehicles. I would say that the custom vehicles do cause instability for the mod menu, but it still functions well enough. Updates are kind of regular, which each update adding new features that improves the user’s experience or expands on its already large list of options to choose from. For $27, it is one of the best mod menu’s to get for the average player either trying to protect themselves or have more fun with the game. However, Luna’s community has recently gone through quite the change, but I think everything should be going more or less smoothly from now, the community seems friendly enough, and the staff seems to be active to help out as well whenever a user requires some help or is running into an uncommon issue with the mod menu.
Impulse:
Essentials: (Around $10, price varies from reseller to reseller)
Impulse Essentials is often compared with Disturbed Basic due to their similar prices, however, Impulse Essentials does not offer the same kind of experience compared to Disturbed. I would say that Impulse Essentials is more catered towards trolling other players and providing a fun experience for when you play GTA V or GTA Online, but not so much for recoveries. All versions of Impulse has kind of a slow recovery option, maximum at GTA$500,000 every few seconds, it is much slower compared to Disturbed’s GTA$6,000,000 per tick and Luna’s 2,500,000 chips per tick. However, Impulse does offer a more stable mod menu for the price even though the protection options are lesser compared to the VIP version. As the name says, Impulse Essentials is meant to provide you with the tools for having the basic modding experience in GTA Online. I think Impulse Essentials does not have a ScriptHookV loader and you cannot change the banner, but those should not really be too much of an issue as many fun features are already included in the Impulse Essentials mod menu. However, Impulse’s support is rarely online depending on your time zone. Impulse’s Discord server has quite a lot of resources on it, but I have heard people getting banned from there from doing seemingly nothing. Fortunately, from what I could see, unless you are being annoying or asking / doing what they would consider to be stupid things, you should be fine.
Standard: Never owned the standard version of Impulse, so cannot really do a review of it.
VIP: (Apparently it should be around $55 from most resellers)
The VIP version of Impulse provides an extremely large number of features that is so large that it would be impractical to cover them here, a list of the features should be able to be found online. Impulse VIP has features that, as far as I know, are incomparable with other mod menu’s as Impulse VIP seriously has the largest list of features that I have ever seen. The features are extremely fun to use and has provided me with one of the most fun freemode experience that I have ever had with a mod menu. From vehicle weapons to spawning vehicles with custom parameters which allowed for control over freemode that I have never experienced before. The Impulse Overseer’s function allows for you to track players’ status and also you can lock lobbies to stop people from joining, which is a nice feature to have. The recovery features are still not that great, but everything else is very fun to use. Most of the features are quite stable and function as intended. If you have the budget for it and you want one of the most fun experiences in GTA Online freemode, Impulse VIP is a good option for you. However, Impulse has always had some issues with missions as their protections are kind of difficult to manage sometimes. Some solutions that I have seen online is to disable every single protection and join missions, however, I do not have too much experience playing missions with Impulse, but as far as I have tried it, it works well enough. I use the Impulse auto injector to use the mod menu, but the time it takes to authorize the current session is very long and sometimes makes the experience feel less polished.
The user interface in Impulse VIP is one of the best designs I have ever seen in a GTA V mod menu aside from Disturbed’s user interface, which is also designed quite nicely. What I enjoy about Impulse VIP’s user interface is the information box at the bottom of the screen which talks more about the selected option and if there is a hotkey bound to the function and which key it is bound to if there is a hotkey set. It allows the user to quickly go through the information without guessing which key it is set to. Impulse VIP also has a search function for the mod menu which allows you to quickly look for a specific function in the mod menu as there are a lot of options to go through. Overall, I feel like Impulse VIP is quite good if you are planning to do a whole lot of things such as trolling or giving other players a funny experience with the various options in the mod menu.
2Take1:
VIP: ( 2Take1 VIP Lifetime costs around $120 either with PayPal or from most resellers, 2Take1 also provides a standard edition, and a subscription license for both variants at varying prices. )
2Take1 is by far the most stable mod menu (other than Kiddions mod menu) that I have ever used. It comes with most of the major features in the larger mod menu’s such as recovery with the ability to unlock most of the things in the game. There are options unique to this mod menu such as the chaos options which provides quite the experience for players in the lobby. My game does not really have any performance issues with 2Take1 and at times, I feel like my game is more stable with the mod menu.
One of the features that I enjoy using with 2Take1 is the aimbot and triggerbot options as it causes your aim to move towards the target instead of having just the bullet hit the target, giving the user a more natural experience. 2Take1 comes with an editor that allows you to modify GTA V to your liking, removing or repositioning just about anything in the game. One of the other unique options is the LUA executor for the game, which allows the users to add functions to the mod menu, making it as simple or as powerful as they want it to be. 2Take1’s Discord server provides many LUA scripts to use with the mod menu and other configs for protections or for stat editing in order to provide the user with just about anything they would want to do with a mod menu if they can use LUA. A nice feature about 2Take1 is a business manager where you can enable an overlay that shows the status of all of your in-game businesses and manages them automatically for you, purchasing supplies, production, selling, etc.. With the ability to change license plates as well, it makes itself to be one of the most unique mod menus that is famous for its safety as it has been undetected for over a year and updates for the latest version of the game within hours. If you have the budget for it, 2Take1 is a very good mod menu that you know you can rely on for its reliability and function.
However, the user interface of 2Take1 is not that nice in comparison to mod menus such as Disturbed and Impulse VIP. It looks quite basic and plain, but you can customize the fonts, the colours, and the headers to your liking, which can really transform how the mod menu looks if you put some time into customizing it. Overall, I can recommend this as one of the most stable mod menus for GTA V as I think I have never crashed with this mod menu by itself.
Over mod menu: ( Priced at around $3 for now, price will apparently increase to $20 when Over V2 comes out. I would recommend purchasing from Protein, PringleMan or Elechugas from their Discord as they provide cheap prices with the best user support out of the majority of the other resellers in their Discord server. )
The mod menu itself is decent at best. Many of the options do not work, clicking on IP information instantly crashes your game, but I would say that it is a good entry level mod menu. Costing only around $3 for now, the resellers there such as Protein, PringleMan, and Elechugas has distinguished themselves from the majority of the other members of the staff by displaying friendliness and concern for the customers and quick response times. A warning for the people that are considering this option, their Discord server is quite toxic, with members of the staff saying this such as “Oh, the ScriptHookV loader doesn’t work? Well, nobody cares.” “Oh, the Fortnite cheat no longer works? Hm, really does not matter to me.” and banning people who are being kind of annoying with the way they describe their problems while being quite insulting to the people of colour. However, Over V2 is coming out soon, so the mod menu issues should be addressed by then. Unfortunately, the staff will likely continue to remain the same, but I think they are kind of toxic in a joking type of way? Not really sure how to explain it anymore. Over is a good entry level mod menu to get into modding as it also includes other cheats such as cheats for Fortnite, Among Us, and also includes a VPN as well. It is a good value for money license as far as I know.
Kiddions mod menu (suggested by user):
Kiddions is a free external mod menu for GTA V that you can download from UnknownCheats. Kiddions provides a lot of features for a free mod menu such as becoming invincible, teleporting, healing, spawning vehicles, repairing vehicles, anti-idle kick, and some basic protections. Kiddions also has quite a powerful unlocks sections, able to unlock many of the unlockables from past events. It also provides some fun features such as ammo modification, money dropping, and infinite vehicle boost or rockets. Unfortunately, being an external mod menu, Kiddions does not provide a smooth teleportation experience. Sometimes, using the teleportation function can result in your going into the ground, where you have to accelerate to get out of. Kiddions also cannot perform some features that people consider fun or for trolling since the capabilities of a mod menu that is external becomes more limited. Overall, Kiddions is a very good mod menu for beginners looking to get into GTA V modding as it also provides some recovery features such as changing levels, unlocking things in the game, and it also provides some money-making options such as doing bunker selling missions instantly or rigging the slot machines. I would recommend using Kiddions along with GTAHaxUI for general stat editing to make it a more complete experience. DiaModz website provides a download for Kiddions with GTAHaxUI along with the files for the various stats that you can edit inside the game.
​
Phantom-X: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
Ilusion Engine: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
X-Force: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
XCheats: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
Fragment: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
Tactical: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
Lightning-X: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
Robust: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
Cherax: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything much about it now, but I have heard that it has the best kicks for a public mod menu.
Paragon: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
Ephemeral mod menu: I do not own this mod menu, so I cannot write anything about it as of now.
​
I would also be willing to review any mod menus that any team or mod menu staff sends me, of course, I will still be unbiased but I will try to be more detailed in any parts that you want me to specify on.
​
Hopefully this has helped you in making a decision with which mod menu you want to purchase, again, if you have anything you want to know about a mod menu that I have access to, feel free to let me know in the comments. If I have made a mistake in a part of my review, let me know and I will check through it again to make sure.
submitted by AverageShade2 to Gta5Modding [link] [comments]

Online Cheating FAQ

Free tools & menus
Although the majority of free menus ARE viruses, scams, detected etc. As far as I know there is 1 decent free menu, decent as in safe to use any paid menu can easily out-class it and can probably crash there game.
The free tools/menu that I would recommend are
Kiddons Modest Menu - https://www.unknowncheats.me/forum/grand-theft-auto-v/433685-kiddions-modest-external-menu.html
This is the one and only free mod menu out there. Its recovery options and tools are lacking however you can set your own experience level with it. It also has a god mode option and a basic vehicle spawner. You can make a decent amount of cash with this menu by going into Online Services/Casino/Rig Slot Machines and remove the limit. With this play the Egyptian themed slot machine and always bet max. You will win every time and you’ll make around 2.5mil per loop, you can cash out the chips to cash. It’s a slow method but the most effective one with kiddons and it still beats dropping yourself or grinding.
GTAHaX - https://www.unknowncheats.me/forum/grand-theft-auto-v/275597-gtahax-1-52-external.html
This is a stat editor for GTA 5, it’s only really useful for setting your character stats, unlocking locked items and skipping heist preps. You cannot modify your xp or cash with this although there might be a way to modify your health, which would be pointless as all menus include a god option. This is also free, Its not a menu but I still include it as it is a cheating tool.
GTA 5 Online Mechanics to know for modding
GTA 5 is a P2P, or Peer to Peer game for online. There are two special types of players used for this, Host and Script Host. Hosts will be hosting the lobby and most menus, except for kiddons ofc, have an option to use a host kick that will kick ANY player in the game, regardless of what protections they have enabled. This is basically an UNBLOCKABLE kick, this is why becoming host is so valued, some people will even kick ½ the lobby in order to gain host. As a host your game can still be crashed or kicked by other modders though, it depends on whether or not your menu is good enough to withstand the kick. Some mod menu’s. You then only need to kick one person. After host there is script host, you can take this away from any player WITHOUT kicking them, although kicking them also works, Script host has a stronger kick than normal but it can still be blocked, so even though it’s nice to be script host it isn’t required or even super helpful.
Paid Menus and what they are good at
I’ll be listing menu’s then talking about them and what they have pros/cons at. There isn’t an exact tier-list however as it mainly depends on what you want
Luna – This is the mod menu I personally usually use, its quick to update and has pretty good recovery options, kicks and protections. As far as I know it’s got the best protections from other menu’s as well as kicks/crashes. It’s not the most stable menu however and I’ve noticed that I crash more with it than normal, although not an extremely high amount. It costs $25 and can be got from https://lunacheats.org/welcome/ Not taking sides, menu was either taken down by a C&D or it was an exitscam. There is no proof of a C&D, articles use Luna as source and Luna use Articles as source but there is also no proof of an exitscam as menu was doing pretty well at the time they got rid of it.
Impulse – Impulse has a few tiers, I’m not too familiar with the individual tiers however Impulse is usually known for its good trolling options, last I checked its recovery options were not that good however it’s still a good menu if you’re looking to troll. It can cost $15 - $50 depending on what tier you get. You can get Impulse from https://impulse.one/
Disturbed – Disturbed is a medium tier menu in my opinion, its not good at crashing other people or protecting against other menu’s however it has great recoveries and it is cheap. It costs around $10-$15. I would not recommend buying Disturbed VIP as your better off getting a different menu. You can get it from https://www.w1tch.pro/
Phantom-X – Phantom-X is also a cheaper menu, It compares to Impulse in the sense that it’s good for trolling and I’ve even seen some people say its better for trolling. However Phantom-X doesn’t seem to be good at that much else. From what I’ve heard its pretty stable. It can be brought from https://recoverygods.xyz/ there main website is pretty hard to find and after 30 minutes of searching I could not find it’s official website as I’ve not personally used Phantom-X.
Paragon – Paragon is one of the more expensive menus. It’s very stable and has a pretty nice looking menu in my opinion. I’ve used it for a while during the free weekend and liked it. It used to be known for its great protections but recently it’s been lacking in protections. However it has decent trolling options, more recently it seems like an all-around menu. You can get it from https://paragoncheats.com/
Ozark – I haven’t tried Ozark much, it’s a cheaper menu but its also in beta. It looks promising and has some unique features. Apparently it has a WIP Lua Injector which is great news for people who are in special groups or know how to code Lua. You can get it from https://ozark.gg/
2Take1 – 2Take1 is usually considered to be the best menu out there, especially if you know Lua as it is the only menu with a working Lua injector. However it is also the most expensive menu and it also partially uses a subscription model, the menu costs $140 to permanently keep and it can be brought from https://2take1.menu/
Menu’s that you should NEVER get
I’ll just list these off without much elaboration as they are usually stolen code, have poor support or are viruses.
Free Youtube/Ebay/Discord Menus – 99% of these are going to be viruses and the other 1% is going to be detected. Don’t install Kiddons from a youtube video go to the unknowncheats link I posted, make an account and get it from there if you want it.
Kingpin – Pretty bad over-all, usually considered to be the worst menu out there.
Never get any mod menu’s that are new, they can be exit-scams and will usually take the cash
and bail after a month. Examples of these exit scam menu’s are
- Over
- Hypno
- Indara
A lot of these exit scam menu’s are also using stolen code.
Resellers
Since most mod menu’s use bitcoin only there are resellers which can sometimes charge at a slightly higher price but will deliver the menu and accept payment forms like PayPal. These are resellers that I know of/am aware of. If you know of a reseller comment it below and I'll add it.
realdudesync
radiantcheats
recoverygods
freshkeys
​
Disturbed keys can only be brought through there discord. You can find a link through there site (W1tch.pro)
​
Updates: V1.1 Added more Resellers, Crossed out Luna
submitted by Game-Crunch to GTAOnlineCheats [link] [comments]

Ideas for new stuff

My friends and I had some ideas for new locations, POI's and vehicles that we'd like to see in the upcoming seasons and game in general:
​
​
​
​
​
​
​
I really hope you like my ideas and feel free to share your ideas in the comments! (just don't be mean if someone has a different opinion on the old island)
EDIT 1: I've added some more weapons and stuff.
submitted by Meme_Chan69420 to FortNiteBR [link] [comments]

Kiddions mod menu HELP

I've used the mod menu for a while and it's worked perfectly for me but since I took a break from GTA V for a few months, ever since I got back on my mod menu hasn't worked, options like the 'rig slot machines' are greyed out and god mode genuine doesn't work anymore. I've checked the file and it's not corrupted and I've even deactivated my AV and Windows Defender. Anyone have any other ideas I can try?
​
EDIT: Managed to find a way to make it work, ty for your help :))
submitted by UwUGirl99 to Gta5Modding [link] [comments]

Is anybody else tired of the grind?

Seriously, i'm so tired of the way modern gaming is going. Everything is freemium, and everything is stupid. Rockstar used to be above the pettiness, but now they're, in my eyes, the forerunners of freemium. I put up with Rockstar's freemium stuff for a long time. The grinding of the game ever since it moved to next-gen really bugged me to no end, but i ignored it and still played the game and supported Rockstar because i loved the game, and loved their company. That love has been shattered by the Casino.
​
As i said before, i ignored how grindy the CEO work, gun running, MC club and other assets were, because i figured if i continued to play, it would help support Rockstar. But i'm livid with how blatantly uneven the casino is. I started today with 800,000 chips. The slot machines today dropped me down to 400,000 chips (I DIDN'T GET A SINGLE NON-INSTANT WIN PAYOUT, the diamonds for example, or the ankh). NOT ONE. And then, playing high limit blackjack, the dealer got a blackjack EIGHT TIMES, to drop me down to 90,000 chips.
​
I'm sorry, but you can't tell me that's not rigged. And yes, i know gambling is frustrating IRL, but not THAT crazy. In real life, the stupid blackjack dealer isn't getting eight blackjacks in 14 games. It's just not possible. And same with the slot machines, eventually you would get some sort of a payout (and i know for sure, i worked in a casino and gambled more often than i like to admit). As someone who worked in a real casino, i KNOW the house always wins, but not that hard. The odds of the casino in the game are laughably bad.
​
I just don't understand how Rockstar does this to loyal fans. I've been playing the series since GTA 3. The turn to freemium Rockstar has taken is sickening. It feels like every decision they make with the game is to force the player to buy shark cards, or frustrate the player somehow. Remember all the outrage from the community when they released the Oppressor Mk 2? Or when they altered passive mode so you could no longer use it on weaponized vehicles and there's a cooldown after you kill a player? As a long time fan of Rockstar, it's so hard for me to support them anymore when it feels like every decision they make is a middle finger to the fanbase.
​
I know i'm going to sound whiny to people reading this, but i know for damn sure i'm not the only one with grievances over Rockstar the past few years. If i had a game company, i would NEVER push the player to purchase micro-transactions, and with GTA V having made Rockstar over 3 billion just in game sales alone, you would think they wouldn't push microtransactions so hard either. The monetary greed of this company has reached critical limits, and it's so depressing to see. The casino has just been the cherry on top of my grievances.
submitted by SonOfStormcloak to GrandTheftAutoV [link] [comments]

A Guide to PC Building: Some Advice From My Experience Over The Years

Disclaimer: VERY long post ahead, one that almost saturates the 40,000-character Reddit limit. I hope to help the younger or more inexperienced system builders out there, and anyone confused or stuck at some point. I encourage you younger and inexperienced builders to read through the whole thing, and others to skim over at their pace. Also, since this is based on my experience over a decade of building AMD rigs and the Ryzen rig I built recently over the past couple of months, a lot of examples use AMD systems. Regardless, most if not all that advice and experience can be applied to Intel systems, and I’ve done my best to do so. Happy reading!
Greetings fellow Redditors,
I’m writing here today to share with those of you eyeing that shiny new build some advice on that topic. This will be from experience I have gained over the years and indeed, gained over the past few months that were spent obsessing over the Ryzen build I’ve just finished piecing together.
A little background on myself is in order: I’ve been a pc enthusiast for slightly over a decade now, and have recently earned a Master’s degree in the field of Computer Science. You most certainly do not need any qualification of that nature to be doing this simply because no engineering or science degree in the field will teach you this stuff. PC building ultimately relies on its community of enthusiasts and DIYers to continue enriching the shared knowledge pool for all of us out there. Indeed, I started building back in the 9th grade and am happy to say I haven’t blown anything yet and the local power station still exists. So, without much ado, here’s the system I’ve just built:
Processor: AMD Ryzen 7 1700 OC’ed to 3.7GHz @ 1.275v
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-AB350 Gaming 3
Graphics Card: Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080 Ti 11GB
RAM: 16GB (8x2) Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 @ 2933MHz CL16 (XMP)
PSU: Corsair RM750x
Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB (Primary OS & Applications)
Crucial MX300 275GB (Game Drive)
Western Digital 1TB mass storage hard drive
LG 34UM60 2560x1080 75Hz Freesync display (Soon to be replaced by an Acer Z35 G-Sync display)
All this in a NZXT S340 Elite case
Yes, that’s a good high-end build beyond which point the effect of diminishing performance returns looms really large currently. Many of you reading this will be quick to point out the smaller game drive SSD (and you’d be right there) and will definitely point out that a 2560x1080 panel is not enough for this build and why pixel density for that resolution at 34” is poor. Allow me an opportunity to counter that in the section dedicated to monitors in this post. Maybe also the B350 chipset instead of an X370. Let’s break it all down, component by component:
Considerations in choosing a processor:
Risking backlash, I’m going to say this flat out: buy the fastest factory-clocked chip you can buy without telling yourself you’ll overclock it to match the faster chips. This is in stark contrast to the overclocked Ryzen 1700 I’ve put into my own build. Here’s why:
  1. You’re going to tell yourself you’re saving money on the chip and being very smart, but will spend that money on a X370 board “for the beefier VRMs and overclocking features” and will then convince yourself you need a 280mm radiator because who buys a 140mm one, right?
  2. Companies like AMD and their motherboard manufactures like to make overclocking sound very easy, they make many videos of it and when you see experts from these companies reiterate how easy and quick it is, you tend to believe it. It’s not that simple and requires more work.
The companies will make it look easy because the chipset designer like AMD wants to sell you the X370 chipset for a multitude of reasons: one, they may have higher margins on those than on processors themselves and two, because once they’ve got you to invest in a top of the line board, they’ve effectively sold you onto their platform and made you reluctant to move away. Along with making you very unlikely to shift away from their ecosystem, they also might have sold you few more future processors supported by the socket and motherboard! Motherboard manufacturers like it because, come on, it’s obvious: the boards cost more.
While we’ll talk about the motherboards next, focusing on the processors for now, overclocking them can be expensive. Let’s consider the cost: a Ryzen 1800x is $500 (can be found at $429 easily now days) and a Ryzen 1700 is $330 (can be found around $270 I believe). That’s less than a $200 price difference. An X370 board will often cost a $100 over the B350 board I picked up, and the water coolers range from $110-$160. You’ve most probably spent more already, if not as much. Yes, you can overclock with a B350 + an air cooler, but most of you will not do that. You’ll see the videos, read the reviews and say “Oh I want to stick with Ryzen for long, I’ll just get the ‘better’ board with the overclocking features.” Factor in a better air cooler for even $50, and the cost difference between a R1700 and a R1800x vanish. The difference is even smaller with the R1600 and R1600x. Yes, you’ll also need to buy a cooler with the “x” marked chips, even then, you’re not saving a significant amount, if you’re saving any at all, that is.
As for overclocking itself, keep in mind you need to fidget a lot with voltages and every time you think you’ve found a stable voltage, you need to stress test it for many, many hours before being sure. Some enthusiasts will say 24hrs, some will say 48, some will say “hey if doesn’t crash on a Prime95 SmallFFT or Blend test in an hour, you’re gold because gaming won’t stress it as much anyway” and they’re right with that. What do I say? Given that a machine can fail a stress test at even the 30th hour and be deemed “unstable”, do it for as long as you’re patient. If you’re okay with keeping the rig on all night only to wake up and see it crashed and its experiment time again, go ahead. I don’t have that patience, I need something that just works, good and fast. Most of you do too.
Another point to this story: voltage requirements change over an extended period of time as the CPU mildly degrades from an overclock that’s not been thoroughly tested. Case in point: I had my R1700 pass a couple hours of the Prime95 SmallFFT CPU torture test when clocked to 3.65GHz @1.18v. Fast forward a couple months when I started noticing mildly weird behavior from my system, and it bluescreened in 2 minutes of that test. Now it’s at 3.7GHz @ 1.275v, having passed several hours of SmallFFT again. Will it degrade again? Who knows. How can I ensure against it? Thorough stability testing. What comprises that? Who knows, you’ll get many different accounts. Get the fastest factory-clocked chip. Look at overclocking as something you’d do to extend the life of the CPU for a couple extra months or maybe a year before replacing it. The 1800x and 1600x overclock to 4.0GHz on 2 cores and 4.1GHz on one, that’s already great for most games out there that are single thread heavy (like GTA V and Far Cry 4). The couple extra frames you might get from future games is simply not worth it, especially if you manage a Freesync or G-sync display on your rig.
This advice applies just as well to Intel chips. Get the fastest factory clocked chip, but with Intel, also do try to get the ‘K’ or ‘X’ marked chips for the unlocked multiplier. Why? Because Intel upgrades are always costlier since you most likely need to change your motherboard as well. So a chip capable of some overclocking might really extend the life of your rig, just ask the i5 2500k owners!
Considerations in choosing a motherboard:
Now this is my favorite topic, and the component I spent the most time researching. Why? Because of how everyone seems to love justifying getting the most expensive board out there. There’s always a good reason: “beefier VRMs, dude!”, “more I/O, dude!”, “SLI, dude!”.
First up, I am not suggesting you get a 1800x and shove it onto a $60 A320/B350 board. Nah, that’s another extreme. Likely because those boards were not really manufactured with the thought that they’d be graced with a top-of-the-line chip, and may actually have weaker VRMs. But look at some of the top B350 boards which are known to officially support an 1800x very well. You’ll have no problems running it, maybe even overclocking it a bit. But really, consider the future proofing excuse, AMD recently stated these first-generation Ryzen chips were “the worst-case scenario” considering the new architecture on a new process node. Future chips will only have higher clocks at lower voltages, meaning an adequate VRM such as those on the top B350 boards would do just fine. Also, most VRMs on X370 boards are already known to be overkill for current Ryzen chips. Personally, I rank the beefier VRM reasoning as the weakest one for an expensive motherboard.
Continuing our look at some great B350 boards, they have the same awesome ALC1220 audio codec as their X370 counterparts, solid build quality, BIOS recovery facilities like Dual BIOS and some other goodies like the diagnostic LEDs on the Gigabyte boards, and they cost a $100 less than their equivalent X370 boards. Talking of I/O, since many fear the lack of adequate SATA and USB ports, speaking from my experience my Gaming 3 board comes with 7 USB ports, 4 of them are taken up by the keyboard, mouse, speaker and the USB WiFi dongle. That still leaves me with 3 USB3 ports. On top of this, I get two extra USB 3.0 port along with a couple USB2.0 ports for the front from the motherboard, and simply use them for any external device I connect. Point being, I still have adequate empty slots. The board I have comes with 6 SATA ports. Ryzen itself provides for 2 of these, and I believe you lose them should you attach an M.2 SATA drive. Considering the miniscule real-world difference of using even a NVMe drive which we’ll also speak of soon, I’d say 6 ports is really overkill for 99% of the PC users out there. Granted my use case and yours would differ, but I doubt by very much even with high-end builds.
Let’s talk of multiple GPUs. Firstly, you should really only be considering this if you’re planning on 4k, and more so if you’re futureproofing for any upcoming 4k 144Hz monitor you’re hoping to splurge on as and when they come out. For all other purposes, you’re advised to stick to a single powerful GPU by getting the best one you can afford. Why? Consider that SLI has very poor developer support, and when it does, you’re very, very unlikely to see 100% scaling and get 60FPS where you were getting 30FPS. Also considering Nvidia has over 70% of the GPU market share, I don’t need to elaborate on the brilliant developer support Crossfire enjoys. You would be much happier and face much less headaches and have much more fun and even save considerable dough with a single 1080 Ti rather than a pair of 1080s in SLI. But supposing you do want the 1080 Ti or even a Titan SLI setup because of the aforementioned 144Hz 4k or because you’re certified Enthusiast Number 1 with a wallet deeper than the Marina Trench, you may then want to consider a HEDT platform, as Ryzen and most chips around that price will support only a single PCI-E 3 lane running at x16. For example, SLI may be supported by Ryzen on X370 boards, but the two slots will run on x8/x8 mode. Intel will be similar, do check. While this would not have been an issue a couple years ago, with the advent of monsters such as the 1080 Ti and Titan cards and the equally monstrous high resolution, high refresh rate displays, there are noted instances of such a x8/x8 setup for SLI actually bottlenecking such cards. So, get a Threadripper and enjoy the 64 PCI-E lanes regardless of chip, or get a X299 based processor that supports the desired number of lanes, but don’t pick up X370 or similar Intel counterparts for SLI. As for Crossfire, if you’re intent on it, several B350 boards do support it, though again in a x8/x8 setup, though that may prove adequate for AMD cards. Point being: get either a single 1080 Ti, or if SLI’ing those or Titans, look at an HEDT rig and do it properly (and get a 1200W PSU to be absolutely safe).
You’ll likely have a similar situation with Intel boards. I’d just like to conclude this section by saying it’s hardly ever necessary to spend nearly $200 on a motherboard, when so many in the $90-$130 range are built so well and packed with adequately more than the essential features. Visit the manufacturers websites and take advantage of their comparison tools; do your own homework before you spend the extra amount just because you think you should, or because it’s the most popular thing to do.
Considerations for CPU cooling:
Another topic that gets a lot of attention, only some of which is justified according to me, is CPU cooling. Yes, it is important to keep the chip cool, but not as cool as possible. Why? Simply because there’s no need to spend the money there. Consider this, my R7 1700 at 3.7GHz reached 85 degrees during a Prime95 SmallFFT torture test while using its default 95W Spire cooler. That is indeed high, yet 10 degrees lower than the 95 degrees limit AMD prescribes for it, but here’s the kicker: it gets that hot in a scenario very unrepresentative of my regular use case. While gaming, it doesn’t exceed 65 degrees, a full 30 degrees below its 95 degree limit, even with the AORUS 1080Ti in my system radiating it’s heat upwards and towards it over prolonged gaming sessions. Yes, a better air cooler would knock it down by maybe 10-12 degrees, a water cooler by 15-25. But, why? The chip is far below it’s 95 degrees limit, and I cannot hear the fan. A loud fan is indeed a good reason to get a better cooler, if the noise from your fan bothers you, by all means go ahead and get one. If, however, the sound from the fan is not bothering you yet, save that money. The sound from the Wraith cooler on my older Phenom II X6 1090T really bothered me, and I simply solved it by swapping out that fan for a better one; a much cheaper, faster and easier solution rather than changing the whole thing!
If you really like the idea of an AIO liquid cooler, then go ahead, but I urge you to consider a 140mm radiator to save some dough. Yes, 280mm is better, but a 140mm radiator is already as good or slightly better than most good air coolers, and that’s really perfect enough. But more importantly, do consider that you’re adding another part to your rig that is candidate for an RMA: the pumps do fail, sometimes sooner than later, and worse: liquid leaks. Maybe it’s not as common, but it still happens: just recently I came across a post here on Reddit by a person whose Corsair H100i literally burst a pipe during operation and fried his motherboard and GTX 970. Also, when you are thinking of that sexy Kraken or H100i, consider that neither NZXT nor corsair are known for their world class customer service. Just be sure of your decision and think of it from many angles, is all I’d like to reiterate. Personally, I wouldn’t be able to sleep at night thinking of any CPU water cooling equipment, the Kraken or the H100i or whatever lingering right over my 1080 Ti, but that’s just me. You may differ.
One last thing: you may think you’re keeping your room cool in the summer by gaming with the CPU at just 35 degrees Celsius thanks to your 360mm radiator, but keep in mind that heat has got to go somewhere, and a better CPU or any component cooler is only considered better for its ability to dump more heat from the component that it is cooling into its surrounding environment. You may be running your chip cooler at the cost of a warmer zone around your PC, all for no added benefit to your CPU that’s already well below its thermal limit!
Considerations in choosing a power supply:
This is the one component I advise you to splurge on. Get a great PSU, after all, it’s going to be delivering power to your components, do you really want to skimp on that?! As for wattage, you must decide based on your use case. If this is a rig you may even have a remote probability of upgrading in the future, get at least a good 650W PSU. That should be enough for a high-end processor and a 1080 Ti along with a good number of HDDs and SSDs. Were possible, getting a 700W or 750W PSU would not hurt so as to keep a little extra breathing room, though it may not be immediately essential. If you feel you may SLI or Crossfire in the future and have a rig with some watercooling and several drives, please do look at a 1200W PSU. If you’re beyond certain of a zero possibility of upgrading and are building a moderate system, even a 550W PSU should suffice: but never skimp on quality. If there is any chance that you may upgrade, think how much it would suck to have to buy a new PSU again at that time. Invest in this one, it’s a long-term call.
There are also PSUs with digital interfaces that let you monitor things via software, I do not think that’s very useful, but if you like the idea, get one. One thing: the PSUs by Corsair that have the digital interface have one feature over the standard ones I like: a PSU fan test switch. With many PSUs having a silent operation mode and keeping their fans off when the power draw is below a certain amount (350W on my 750W RMx, I believe), the fan stays off and sometimes one gets concerned that the fan is at least operational. A fan test switch is indeed useful here. Corsair has the RMi and HXi series, with the ‘i’ demarcating the digital interface. Other PSU brands will have something similar. Check on it.
Considerations for storage:
This one is relatively simpler, yet I messed up a bit here. Definitely get a 250GB SSD for the OS. I find this capacity adequate. Remember, I also use my system for work, and have several IDEs and Dev tools such as Visual Studio with several SDKs and even Unreal Engine installed on my C drive, along with Ghost Recon Wildlands, Elite Dangerous and Far Cry 4, and I still have 40GB free. Yes, I keep all documents, music and videos on the mass storage hard drive and not on the C drive, and if you aren’t already, get with the program and move your files off the C drive ASAP.
Where I messed up is the slightly small 275GB game drive SSD. Large games with huge textures benefit immensely from an SSD, and having a SSD to shove those games that should be on an SSD is a very worthy investment. It would be ideal for me to have a 1TB SSD for them and have them all in one place, this makes Windows reinstalls a lot easier as all the games are on one drive and need minimal setup. Alas, that’s out of my budget for now and the 275GB drive is simply a stop gap arrangement. Based on the games that you play and their size, get a separate SSD for them as and when you can afford to, it makes maintaining them far easier, especially when you are in that situation wherein a fresh Windows installation must be done. Use a large HDD for mass storage of documents and older games.
As for NVMe? I recently had a chat with a game developer who worked on Far Cry Primal and For Honor back when he was a Game Dev for Ubisoft and he’s currently running a Threadripper 1950X and two EVGA FTW3 1080 Tis in SLI on his private development rig which has no NVMe drives. He said the 0.5 second savings in load times is not worth it to him. Here’s a dude with no shortage of reasons and money for a fast rig of that stature, and he didn’t need a NVMe drive. I doubt most of us do either. Save the dough, unless you need the space savings or are getting one for very near the price of a regular SSD, just get the regular SSD. Spend the money on a better GPU and PSU, or go buy a gym membership and a box of whey protein and stop obsessively spending all this time here!
Considerations in choosing RAM:
16GB is regarded as a good amount today, more than adequate for today’s stuff and enough legroom for tomorrows awesomeness. If you cannot currently afford that much, get 8GB. Most processors run dual channel memory, and so for budget builds many will advise a 4GB x 2 configuration. I advise against this. Why? Maybe you can’t get 16GB now, but it will be essential soon and maybe you can add a second 8GB stick 6 months later. Keep it as future proof as possible, why get around to buying another 2 4GB sticks later and struggle if you encounter issues with this setup? You’ll encounter no initial issues with the single channel setup, and in the future when you get a dual channel setup, you won’t encounter any issues then either.
Do check compatibility well. Ryzen is known to really favor Samsung B-die, this has been confirmed by AMD themselves. Other chips may have similar preferences. Google memory support on your platform of choice before pulling the trigger to be sure. I got lucky and my LPX runs on XMP with no issues and even passed a night of MemTest. But don’t rely on chance and so please do a little research on this, you’ll save yourself of a colossal headache diagnosing issues that stem from memory that creates all sorts of instabilities and prevents a boot in the worst case.
As for RAM speeds, please don’t think spending an extra $100 on 3600MHz memory over 3000MHz memory will do you any wonders. Yes, you may score higher at benchmarks, but in any practical application, may actually see as little as a 2%-3% difference, that too when you’re lucky!
Considerations in choosing a case:
Go with what you need. Talk to yourself about what exactly are your requirements. I choose the S340 Elite because it’s the best looking compact ATX case, and there’s a fair chance I travel around and I would hate to have to check-in this rig on flights. With a case as compact as this, I can just take it as carry-on baggage. I spent a ton of time sitting on manufactures websites with a scale in my hand pouring over the dimensions of these cases as mentioned on their specification sheets. See what your requirements are and invest accordingly. Again, it would suck to have to buy a new case at a later date and to reassemble.
Maybe you hope to move onto Threadripper or X299 in the future. Then you’ll may need a case that can support the Extended ATX (E-ATX) size some of the boards of those platforms require. Assess your requirements thoroughly and invest once and invest well.
Considerations in choosing a graphics card:
Yes, finally. I know many of you were waiting on this one. So, there’s three ways I’d recommend to go about this: firstly, simple: get the fastest card you can currently afford. But what if it’s not that great a card/you desire more? What if you can “only” get a GTX 1080 now but you know a couple months later can get a 1080 Ti? That gets us to my second approach: if you need a working computer right away, get the cheapest card you can find. Maybe a reliable secondhand HD 7850 for $50. Maybe a GTX 1050 for $65 or a RX 550 or whatever. And hold it for a few months before getting a top of the line card.
But what if you don’t need a 1080Ti now, are sure you will not need it in the near future either and can get a 1060 or RX 570 or something and are completely okay with that? Maybe you are certain of sticking to 1080p@60Hz or similar. Then just get the best you can get, and be happy. Just make sure you’re really certain. It’s easy to convince yourself that you are content with your parts at the time you’re paying for them, but it is far easier to start craving for more once the gaming begins. Don’t let that be you. Be sure of your requirements, if you’re keen on jumping onto 144Hz or 1440p or even 1440p 144Hz or 4k but can’t afford a 1080 or 1080Ti now, maybe you can plan to spend on that a couple months down the line. It’s better to sacrifice today and get a small, cute little 1050 only to make a really nice jump a short bit later.
This is also what I did. I bought a reference 4GB RX480 back in March, before the mining craze. Got it brand new from Newegg with Doom free and a $30 rebate for a final price of $160. Man, those were good times for GPUs…seems a long time back now. I sold that RX 480 slightly after the mining craze and moved on to this GTX 1080 Ti. Why didn’t I sell earlier? I was convinced on RX Vega and so blinded by it, I didn’t even consider this move. So, there is my final and most important point WRT GPU purchases: never, ever make plans on the basis of future releases. Even if the product is good, you may not get your hands on it at MSRP for months. If you can wait that out with your current build, then by all means do so. Otherwise, just get the best deal out there on the move you plan to make and get on with your life.
When choosing between various high-end parts, just get the best priced one. I picked the AORUS 1080 Ti because it was the cheapest of all custom 1080 Tis at the time, I also knew it’s copper baseplate cooling was superior to many others, but I didn’t really bother verifying this. Price ruled. What difference are you expecting between an AORUS 1080Ti, and a MSI Gaming X or an ASUS Strix? They’re aftermarket cards from good brands and are definitely better than the Founders Edition, that’s really all that matters. If the Strix was cheaper, I’d have got that even though I liked the AORUS card’s look more. Doesn’t matter. These cards are also incredibly fast and overclocking them really won’t be worth your time and thought. Just stick with a good brand with good after sales support and get the cheapest amongst them without worry. Really think 20MHz or even 50MHz on a 1080 Ti will matter? Nvidia boost automatically takes my card up to 1984MHz, though Gigabyte claims just 1600MHz something on their website. All other cards will be the same, ditto for other chips. As long as you’re getting one with a good AIB custom cooler, just get the best priced model and move on.
Considerations when choosing a monitor:
Now this is a touchy topic. You may be confused with all the terminology out there, I was too. First thing first, for a gaming setup, I absolutely recommend a Freesync or a G-Sync panel depending on your graphics card being an AMD or a Nvidia card. Either ways, I absolutely recommend active refresh, and not for the screen tearing which didn’t personally bother me as much, though again you may be different, but instead for the removal of stutter from those times your framerate falls below the refresh rate of the monitor and for extending the life of your rig by providing a smooth gaming experience for a longer time. Let me share my own experience:
I initially had a RX 480 in my system with a 1080p 60Hz monitor. With a good mix of high and very-high settings coupled with anti-aliasing, it rarely ever kept to a smooth 60 FPS. I hated the stutter, and soon switched to my current ultrawide 75Hz monitor. Aware of the increase in resolution, I was certain I’d have to slash settings down even further on my system, but thanks to Freesync, I never ended up having to care. I did not reduce my quality settings in a single game, GTA V or Witcher 3 or Elite Dangerous as framerates down to low 50s felt butter smooth. Following the Vega fiasco, I ended up with a 1080 Ti. Now this card is amazing, no doubt at all. Where the RX 480 could not even run GTA V at a smooth 60 FPS with no MSAA and high settings, I get a smooth 75FPS with 4xMSAA and every setting maxed other than grass and the advanced stuff. I get the 140FPS I should in the GTA V benchmark, and 95FPS on the Ghost Recon benchmark with Very High settings. But let me tell you something, there are still times when the framerate drops. Not very frequently, but not so infrequently that I can just dismiss it. Sometimes, you’ll end up in that fucked up scenario in GTA V where you’re downtown and it is nighttime and there’s tons of reflection and shadow and a lot of cars and people and it rains and there’s fog and my framerate actually tanks to 50-55 FPS. In Ghost Recon, keeping Turf Effects on along with ultra shadows and vegetation leads to a smooth 60 FPS, and yet a good number of times it will drop to 45-50. The stutter sucks. I hate it. Enough to have scouted out a G-Sync ultrawide somehow. Look, the benchmarks you see in card reviews are great, and I too get those figures and the 100 FPS on Witcher 3 at ultra with 4x Hairworks and the 28000 points on Fire Strike, but real-life gaming is not represented well by these benchmarks. There will be moments that bring even really powerful systems down, and the bigger problem: not all games are optimized well. Case in point, Far Cry 4 hates Ryzen in my experience, and Firewatch and Euro Truck Sim 2 aren’t the best optimized games either. No matter how fast your processor with how many cores and how expensive your GPU, not every game will run at those incredible framerates, at least not all the time, and not even the ones that benchmark really well. Active refresh technologies like G-Sync and Freesync are a very essential part of a gaming rig in my humble opinion.
Now you may have heard of LFC, or Low Framerate Compensation on monitors. Yes, this is another worthy feature. What does it do? Briefly put, if there are times your framerate falls really low, below the minimum boundary of the Freesync or G-Sync range, it’ll automatically display each frame twice so as effectively double the framerate and thus push it back into the Free/G sync range. So 20 FPS moments turn to 40 FPS. Again, a great feature to have. While only some Freesync panels have this, all G-Sync panels do. Keep in mind the new Freesync 2 certification from AMD requires all Freesync 2 panels to have this feature. G-Sync panels also have a feature called Ultra Low Motion Blur, or ULMB, which aims to combat the excessive blurring you may encounter when the framerates and refresh rates are so high that the monitors response time slows down to several milliseconds. Again briefly put, it aims to strobe the backlight in sync with the refresh rate, but here’s the caveat: G-Sync must be off for it to take effect, and its generally effective at the 85+ FPS range. As G-Sync is often a better feature to have enabled, don’t overpay for a monitor that claims to have a superior implementation of ULMB.
Now, for the very touchy topic of pixel density, or more so, the lack of it. Many will claim they absolutely need ‘x’ dpi, but really most of us will not notice. I’ve gamed on PS4’s hooked to 1080p 50” displays that looked fantastic, and using a 2560x1080 34” ultrawide has been a gorgeous experience. Yes, the extra screen space obtained for productivity from a 3440x1440 panel may be nicer, but you know what’s better? Not having extra space in my wallet due the $400-$600 extra I didn’t spend on the low refresh rate 1440p ultrawide panel. I was almost sold on them, and was reading reviews for the Acer X34, when on the conclusion page despite awarding it the “Editor Recommended” batch, Tom’s hardware felt compelled to mention how you shouldn’t dismiss the Z35 just for its lower resolution as its brilliant panel makes this a non-issue. Heading over to the conclusion page for the Z35 review, they call it “the most beautiful display that has graced our labs”. Now I doubt Acer would pay to show the Z35 over the X34, so I believe they’re being honest, and if they can feel that after testing all those displays, you should reconsider your worry on “pixel density”. Nonetheless, I did manage to check them both out in person and was really glad Tom’s said that as they were absolutely right: I found no reason to pay that much extra from the X34 1440p display. I program, work and game on a 2560x1080 display, and am only thrilled each time. Don’t believe people on the internet who profess their necessity for high pixel densities and thank God for having spent on it: it’s the internet, there’s a very good chance they’re either just trying to get themselves to feel better for having spent that extra amount or are image/video professionals who for some reason feel the need to state why they need it when it’s obvious to us all that they do. Some will be nice and honest too. 34 inches is not “too much” for 2560x1080, but those many extra hundreds of dollars might be too much for you. Don’t let this deprive you of the experience an ultrawide monitor can get you, and do think twice and try to check them out in person always.
Also, an added bonus, many 2560x1080 panels including the Z35 have a very high refresh rate along the lines of 165-200 Hz. So, the 1080 Ti might be rendering to a slightly lower resolution screen but really gets to stretch its legs with that refresh range on a G-Sync panel. Also, the 1080 Ti in my system just got more future proof thanks to this. See why I say don’t dismiss things easy?!
Lastly, would I recommend an ultrawide display? Absolutely. Again, a game changing and exhilarating experience not only the first time you play, but each time. And full screen modern movies. What’s not to love?
All this finally leads us to our conclusions:
Conclusions:
  1. Buy the fasted factory-clocked chip you can, overclock only when necessary, or if you have the time and patience to learn to do it right. You can also spend on a CPU in stages, say if you’re building a system today on a limited budget and hope to upgrade in the future, get a good motherboard and PSU and a Ryzen 1400 or 1500X. That’s adequate for now, and then around 18 months later when 2nd gen Ryzen is out, get the top notch 6 or 8 core model then. With intel, your choices in this regard may be limited as they always have so many motherboard sockets. Maybe you can get an i3/i5 now and get an i7 from the same generation later on from the secondhand market.
  2. With motherboards, more expensive is hardly ever necessary. Look for a solid board in the $90-$130 range, it’ll probably have more than enough I/O, connectivity and PCI-E lanes for you. Then again, if going the X299 or X399 route, go all out and get the beefiest, fanciest board you can: you’re not upgrading for ages and no point getting onto the HEDT bandwagon and compromising even a single feature thanks to the board. And surely, going this route, you can afford it!
  3. Check RAM compatibility on your platform. For a gaming system, if not going with 16GB today, get a single 8GB stick and upgrade by adding another one later so as to get them on dual channel mode. Don’t think you’re going to get a world of difference by splurging on 3600MHz memory over 2600MHz one. The real-world performance difference is negligible, if you’re lucky, you may see a couple extra frames. Also do keep in mind that with Ryzen, any RAM speed above 3200MHz depends on silicon lottery as RAM speeds directly correlate to the speed of the Infinity Fabric in the chip. You may splurge to get the highest speed RAM kit but may have no luck running it!
  4. Splurge on a solid PSU. If you’re definitely not upgrading, just get what you need for your current build and be done with it. Otherwise, get as much breathing space as possible. If you may go with SLI/Crossfire in the future and may have watercooling pumps and radiators and several drives, get at least a 1200W PSU.
  5. A 250GB SSD for the OS and applications should be more than adequate. Try to get a separate SSD for the games, it is definitely worth it for the newer, larger titles, and be sure to add a mass storage hard drive.
  6. Get a case that suits your needs. If you’ll be travelling, get a compact one. If you’ll be upgrading to an E-ATX based platform like Threadripper or X299, get a case that’ll accommodate them when it’s time.
  7. Don’t get talked into the pixel density argument WRT monitors. Try them out yourself, but don’t over splurge beyond your means. Definitely try your best to score Free/G sync, and do consider ultrawide displays. A 29-inch ultrawide is as tall as a 24” 16:9 monitor and a 34” one is as tall as a 27” 16:9 display. Keep that in mind when choosing, and try to get a large one, especially if you’re paying extra for G-Sync, as you may not upgrade soon.
  8. Don’t obsess with running your CPU as cool as possible, it’s unnecessary as long as it’s running well within thermal range and keep in mind that all that excess CPU cooling will just dump more heat into the surrounding, thus creating a warmer atmosphere for you around your PC for no added benefit to the chip. Think also of the higher risk of pump failure and liquid leakage and the RMA hassles before you invest in watercooling. With custom cooling loops, think of the fuss each time you need to move anything inside, what with draining the reservoir and everything, do your research beforehand and be sure you’re ready for all this.
  9. Lastly, along with Googling your doubts and asking them here and on other forums, spend time on the manufactures websites. They often have great comparison tools and detailed specs. Make use of that and of your own reasoning, don’t blinded accept anything you’re told without researching this way yourself, and putting your own thought into it.
Some general things to keep in mind when building:
  1. If your PSU has those daisy-chain 8 pin connectors for the GPU in a (6+2) + (6+2) config, for high powered cards that have two 8-pin power slots, use two different cables instead of daisy chaining. Remember the following:
6 pin = 75 watts
6+2 = 8 pin = 150 watts
So using:
8 pin is okay
6+2 is okay
6+6 to a single 8 pin is okay
But,
8+8 in one cable via daisy chaining is not
6+2 + 6+2 in one cable via daisy chaining is not and
6+2 + 6 via daisy chaining is not
  1. Be sure to plug in RAM in the right slots. In my motherboard, the RAM acted very funny and never enabled XMP when I’d accidently left them in the black slots numbered 2 and 4. I moved them to the red slots numbered 1 and 3 and all has been good since. Your board may have such a need too. Check the manual.
  2. Run MemTest once overnight on newly installed RAM with XMP enabled.
  3. Don’t forget to enable XMP in the BIOS! This has to be done manually!
  4. Update the BIOS only when needed, when there is a feature that’s missing in your current BIOS or a bug that’s affecting you and you need it fixed, do not unnecessarily upgrade if all is well. Follow the old American adage: If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
  5. Enabling a global frame rate limit in Radeon Settings or the Nvidia Control Panel when you’re running Free/G sync may prevent some games from running in full screen mode. I had this problem when I had used Radeon settings and set the Global Frame Rate Target Control setting to 74 FPS, it made the display hang when trying full screen with Elite Dangerous and Far Cry 4. Disabling this setting fixed it, this was an accidental discovery I made that had me scratching my head for a long time wondering what’s wrong and I do hope this helps out someone in a similar situation.
  6. Lastly, when enabling a frame rate limit such as above, set it to one below the max refresh rate of the monitor, so 143 FPS for a 144Hz panel.
And with that we’re done with this humongous post, congratulations and thank you for having gone through it! I hope this helped you in some way, and do feel free to reach out with any questions/suggestions you may have. Wish you the very best ahead!
LINUX: Do NOT get ANY Gigabyte AM4 motherboard if you're planning on using anything Linux. Kernels newer than 4.10 will encounter a panic on boot, displaying "unexpected IRQ trap at vector 07". This'll need you to boot with ACPI off. Fedora 24 and Linux Mint 18 are stable though.
STABILITY TESTING: https://www.reddit.com/buildapc/comments/70ih3a/a_guide_to_pc_building_some_advice_from_my/dn5mbkk/
IS RAM SAMSUNG B-DIE: https://www.reddit.com/buildapc/comments/70ih3a/a_guide_to_pc_building_some_advice_from_my/dn4wtay/ OVERCLOCKING: https://www.reddit.com/buildapc/comments/70ih3a/a_guide_to_pc_building_some_advice_from_my/dn68imp/
submitted by AbheekG to buildapc [link] [comments]

[USA - CA] [H] A lot of hardware: LGA 1366 / CPU combos, RAM, GPUs, PSUs, Thinkpad W530 eGPU, Dell Venue 7140, and others. [W] Local Cash, Paypal

Hello everyone!

Post update #1: I didn’t include this anywhere but prices aren’t set! I will accept Best offers for items. Don’t be afraid to ask :)
Post Update #2: Updated some prices to make it around market price on what you'd see on here and from feedback from some co-workers!
Group Photo!! (Timestamps)
After a hard conversation with myself, I've decided that it's time that I move away from my PC Hardware hobby. My wife and I are almost finished with our college careers and we're both taking steps to progress in our future careers and our family life. PC Hardware collecting will always be a hobby of mine, but for now it needs to be put on hold.
As of now, all of the items are only going to be sold LOCAL ONLY; Shipping isn't a option due to time constrains on my end. If you really, really would like an item shipped. Please, PM me and maybe we can work something out. However, Bundle deals/Local cash will take priority.
Local ZIP for reference: 92780 / 92626 / 90620 / 92630
I'm willing to drive to you if you're near those zips. If not, lets talk about a meeting place!
Same rules apply, comment before PM'ing. However when commenting, please include what item you're interested in as well as your location. If you're in the SoCal area or are willing to drive here you're priority.
I think that's it! Hope someone finds what they need here! Feel free to PM me about anything, even about if it's not able HW :D

Mechanical Keyboard Stuff

Item Condition/Notes Price Sold? (Y/N) Buyer
KBParadise V60 GTR-R 60% Keyboard with Gateron Reds. Used for about a month until I got an Anne Pro which I decided to keep. Keyboard only with micro-usb cable. $75 N
Maxkey Miami SA Keycaps Purchased with the intention of using it as my daily. However, I didn't realize how heavy the keys would be. It works really well with MX Blues imho. However I only use Gateron Reds. Not only that after using black blanks on the Anne Pro. I prefered that look. $80 N
enjoyPBT Blank "Black" Purchased as a gift but we decided to go a different route. It was only opened to ensure that the keycaps were black. However it looks more 'Dark grey" than black. Never left the keycap holder that you see pictured. $40 N
100pcs. Gateron Red 3-pole Switches Was going to attempt to replace the Black Switches on my Magicforce 68. Ended up giving the keyboard away so it was never opened. Unfortunately, I'm won't be selling individual switches. It's all or nothing :) $40 N
Note: Bundle Deal: KBP V60 + Maxkey Miami Keycaps + enjoyPBT keycaps = *$180**

Lenovo Thinkpad W530 Laptop/eGPU Starter Kit:

Photos:
Thinkpad Logo
Opened Up
Keyboard Cosmetic Damage
Specs Confirmation
Purchased about a month ago as a mini-project to create a "portable" gaming station. Essentailly using the EXP GDC v8.0 eGPU + MSi GTX 1050ti to have a portable gaming rig. It actually worked out very well; Better than expected. The performance through the internal display via Nvidia Optimus isn't as bad as people say, but using the GPU's external ports is definitely the way to go.
Specs:
  • Intel Core i7-3740QM
  • 12gb DDR3 1600MHz
  • Intel HD 4000 + Nvidia Quadro K1000m
  • Stock 1600x900 Panel
  • Main Drive: Sandisk Ultra II 480gb SSD
  • Second Drive (via Optical Drive Caddy): WD Blue 500GB HDD
  • Backlit keyboard with Thinklight
  • Lenovo 170w AC Adapter
What's included in the eGPU Starter Kit:
  • EXP GDC v8.0 Mainboard
  • ExpressCard34 to HDMI connector
  • Dell DA-2 220W PSU
  • 6pin (Male) to 8(6+2)pin+6pin cable
Buying Options:
1. Lenovo Thinkpad W530 only: Sold
  1. eGPU Starter Kit only: $60

Dell Venue 11 Pro 7140

Photos:
Dell Venue with all incl. accessories
Cosmetic Damage
Cosmetic Damage II
Used this tablet for school due to the amount of maintenance manuals and PDFs I had to deal with. Decided to move to the Lenovo X230 Tablet because of the stylus. However, I'm very keen on keeping this because of it's display. Watching movies on it was a joy! It's a great portable movie device.
Specs:
  • Intel Core M5y10
  • 4gb DDR3 (non-upgradeable)
  • 1920x1080 touch-display
  • Windows 10 Home - Activated
  • Sandisk M2242 64gb SSD as main drive.
  • Samsung 64gb microSD for storage.
Accessories that will be included:
  • Original Dell Portable AC Charger with generic Micro USBs
  • Dell Venue Mobile Keyboard with built-in battery. (C condition; Purchased 2nd hand through eBay. All cosmetic damages. Does not affect peformance. Keys are fully functional)
Total Price: $220

LGA 1366 CPU / x58 Motherboard Combos

*Note: Items in this list will not be parted out. I've personally tested these items the way that they're configured and know of their conditions. All combos come with 2 SATA Cables in case you need them :D

COMBO 1: Main Rig

The build that stirred my interest in the x58 series. I sold my haswell build for this because of how awesome this chipset was. Built in 2016, running Windows 10; It gave me no issues what so ever.
Price: $160 $140 (willing to combo with H100i for $210 $190)
Component Description
Intel Dx58SO Motherboard (rev/01) No.1 PCIe Slot has a broken lock tab.Ran 3 different CPUs (w3560, x5650, x5677) with no issues. Only 4 DIMM slots but took 24gb of RAM without issues. Includes Dx58SO Box (Not the same S/N)
Intel Xeon x5677 (4c/8t @ 3.47GHz) OC'd with this board to 4.02GHz with no voltage changes. Cooled via Corsair H100i V2 since day one. Temps never reached above 67deg.

Combo 2: Ditto

Installed Windows 7. Originally built to be a CAD machine. Upgraded to Windows 10. to change it into a streaming machine. Then into a test bench for PC hardware. It's final conversion was into an HTPC machine before it's final resting place in my closet.
Price: $150 $130
Component Description/Notes
EVGA x58 SLI ATX (132-BL-E758-RX) No physical issues present. This motherboard does not support Westmere Xeons. This is the Rev.01 board. EVGA can do a conversion if you really want it.
Intel Xeon W5590 (4c/8t @ 3.66 GHz) Fastest Xeon that this board supports as per EVGA specifications. Never OC'd under my ownership.
Enermax ETS-NT3 CPU cooler 92mm CPU fan cooler. Purchased to replace the stock Intel Cooler due to bearing failure. Kept around 67C at loads. Will re-apply thermal paste when sold.

Combo 3: Codename: Sleeper

Named Sleeper because after I built and tested it, it never got used and slept in my closet for months. Originally built it to replace the Intel DX58SO but I didn't want to reinstall everything at the time. Only turned on for maximum 2 hours. Long enough to install Windows 10 + Drivers and a couple of games.
Price: ~~$140 $120~~ Sold locally as a Combo
~~Components Description/Notes~~
EVGA x58 SLI 3x (131-GT-E767-TR) SATA 4/5 Top Port is damaged; Top was snapped off. Does not affect lower port. All other ports were tested as well. This motherboard does work with Westmere CPUs (Tested with X5677)
Intel Core i7-950 (4c/8t @ 3.06GHz) Came with motherboard. Ran as expected and at stock speeds in my possession.
Intel LGA 1366 CPU Cooler Came with motherboard. Slightly dusty. Works as expected.~~

Graphics Cards

*Note: All cards were tested and verified working prior to being posted.
Item Condition/Notes Price Sold? (Y/N) Buyer
MSI GTX 980 Gaming 4G Used as part of the main rig since early 2017. Was OC'd for about a week. Removed the OC because most of the games I play didn't benefit from it. $220 Yes Sold Locally for Asking Price
[MSI GTX 1050 Ti OC 4G](https://i.imgur.com/ZVanABU.jpg) Purchased as an eGPU. Worked very well (once EGPU drivers were installed correctly). Original box included. $120 YES Sold as a Combo
EVGA GTX 770 2gb SSC ACX2.0 Given to me to be used for the Sleeper rig. Did output properly and ran Overwatch for a while. No issues found. $75 REMOVED
MSI GTX 760 Twin Frozr 2G Bought to replace the GTX 570 in the Ditto Rig. It was in the HTPC stage when it was installed. Did output to a display and ran GTA V for a while. No issues found. Includes original box. $45 Yes Sold Local
EVGA GTX 570 1.5GB Purchased from hardwareswap couple months ago. Used when Ditto Rig was in it's CAD stage. Became a test GPU to test video outputs as well as the test GPU for the eGPU setup. $30 No

RAM

Memory was tested via MemTest for 24 hours prior to being listed.
Manufacturer Size Configuration Speed Price Sold? (Y/N) Buyer
Crucial Ballistix 16gb 2 x 8gb 1600MHz $70 $65 N
Corsair XMS3 16gb 4 x 4gb 1600MHz $60 Yes sold as combo
G.Skill RipjawsX 8gb 2 x4gb 1600MHz $40 N
Patriot Viper 8gb 2 x 4gb 1600MHz $40 N
Corsair XMS3* 6gb 3 x 2gb 1600MHz $25 yes Sold as Combo
G.Skill Ripjaws** 4gb 1 x 4gb 1600MHz $15 N
OCZ Z Memory*** 6gb 6 x 1gb 1333MHz $15 N
*Corsair XMS3 + XMS3 bundle price = $75
**G.Skill Ripjaws + G.Skill RipjawsX Bundle Price = $50
***OCZ Memory has different timings; Green PCB @ 7-7-7 / Black PCB @ 9-9-9 only selling as one bundle.

Power Supplies, Corsair h100i:

Power Supplies
Item Condition/Notes Price Sold? (Y/N) Buyer
Corsair H100i v2 Intel 115x bracket only; Damaged rad fins and mis-matching screws but it doesn't affect usability. Includes two Corsair SP120mm fans as well as two Y-adapters to connect all four fans to the cooler. $60
Corsair CX750M Used as part of the main rig. Includes all of the cables that came with the PSU originally. I had to mount the PSU in a special way. Which invovled removing 3 screws. $40 N
Thermaltake TR2 750w Given to me as a Test PSU. Worked well. Never fully stressed it out since I've gotten it. Only includes one SATA cable and one Molex Cable $20 N
EVGA 450w Bronze Bought to be used in with the Sleeper machine; So it saw as much as 2 hours of use. $30 Yes

Ending

Welp! That's all I have to offer. Please feel free to PM me about anything regarding the items. Or even anything other than hardware! I do my best to try to accommodate everyone.
PS. Mr. Greenleaves isn't going to be included in any purchase :)
submitted by synomis to hardwareswap [link] [comments]

Destiny 2 - Guardian's Guide to PC Gaming - Quiet before the Storm

This is the third entry in our monthly preview of the best PC gaming components for Destiny 2. The second entry is available here, and the first entry is available here.

Again, the original is on Medium. It may look better on mobile there, but the text has been copied and formatted for here.

Welcome back, Guardians and aspiring Guardians! This is our last rodeo before getting some real framerate data. As a result, we’ll try to keep things brief.

What’s new for August?

TL;DR

1. Graphics cards are still stupid expensive Mainstream graphics cards are in extreme shortage, driving up prices to nearly double their normal retail price. For anyone in the market right now, we put together a guide for what the best cards are and what price you should be paying. To that end, we're adding a column to our reports to indicate what a normal price would be for these components.

2. Console Pricing as of August 2017:

Console Subscription Length Price
Xbox One and Xbox Live 12 month $290
PlayStation4 and PlayStation+ 12 month $275
PlayStation4 Pro and PlayStation+ 12 month $445
Xbox One X and Xbox Live 12 month $539

3. Destiny 2 is going to run well on very modest specs, but even the cheapest machine will be ~$550 (compared with Xbox One’s $293 or PS4’s $275).

4. Destiny 2’s beta will be extremely difficult to get framerate data for as they are restricting 3rd party apps to prevent cheating. We are still determining how best to gather this before the official launch. Update: Per This Week at Bungie, published after the original document, Bungie confirmed both that 1) background hardware monitors will still be able to capture data and 2) D2 will have an in-game framerate counter. Both great news that make this obsolete.

5. Based on the specs Bungie listed, we expect this to run similarly to Battlefield 1. If you’re looking for a new rig, check out the benchmarks for that first.

6. AMD is launching new high-end graphics cards on August 14, called Vega. The initial response has been underwhelming, but they have a chance to disrupt some of the higher end builds (1080p144 and 1080p144). We will update when we know more.

7. We’re using data from GamersNexus with their blessing. They are awesome and if you want to go deep into performance analysis, they are a great resource.

Bungie's Hardware Specs & Analysis

Old news at this point, but Bungie gave us an idea of what kind of systems should be able to play the Destiny 2 beta (starts 8/28 early access, 8/29–8/31 for everyone). Here’s a snapshot of their hardware recommendations.

Analysis

That minimum spec is a great thing for gamers. This is going to run well on much older hardware. How well is a question for the beta . Given the specs are remarkably similar to Battlefield 1’s recommendations, it is safe to say this will run more like an FPS than an Open World game (like a GTA). In that case, we assume minimum specs are for 1080p30 and recommended specs are for 1080p60. Bungie confirmed the event machines are for 4k60, and the 1080 Ti is essentially the only card that consistently delivers 4k60.

Starting with the CPUs, recommending an old Core i5–2400 with the brand new Ryzen 5 1600X is bizarre but gives growing evidence that Destiny 2 will still very much depend on single-threaded processor performance. This is what’s holding the consoles back, and it looks like it’s holding back AMD’s older, multi-core parts (the FX-edition and APUs). It may scale well to other cores, but there is a minimum threshold the system has to be able to deliver to get to 60 fps.

Our beloved Pentium G4560 gets a shoutout as the minimum spec. That’s a dual core processor with two really beefy threads. In Battlefield 1, it delivers in excess of 60 fps and could potentially do the same in Destiny 2 (even if they are pinning it to a 30 fps target out of caution).

As for the GPUs, this is really standard fare for shooters.A GTX 1060 gets you 1080p60, a GTX 1080 Ti gets you 4k gaming, and a GTX 1050 is fully playable. We assume AMD’s rival parts will slot in well here, with an RX 570 performing admirably at 1080p60 and an RX 560 serving well at 1080p30.

Given these data points, we think Battlefield 1 will be a good substitute right now for how D2 will play; however, with the beta so close, it’s still worth waiting.

What to Look For in the PC Beta

Bungie detailed all the gameplay available during the beta, including a new PvP map. In an effort to prevent cheating, they are also deliberately shutting down 3rd party apps that inject code. Unfortunately, cheating in PC gaming is a time-honored tradition, and many recent releases have suffered from developers doing nothing (yes, DICE, I’m still bitter about the aimbots in Battlefield).

Bungie taking this into account early is praiseworthy but also introduces difficulties. OBS and XSplit won’t work for streaming in full-screen mode, but NVIDIA ShadowPlay and AMD ReLive will.

This introduces a unique problem for us: we can't get framerate data with FRAPs.

Without FRAPs or similar tools, gathering framerate data for yourself is difficult if not impossible. We reached out to Bungie for clarification if there will be a console and in-game framerate data, but it is doubtful that would be available in a beta. FCAT analysis should still be viable, but it requires a several thousand dollar rig we don’t have and most gamers aren’t either. I’m not sure how much time bigger media groups will spend analyzing the data, but we will keep an eye out and do our best to integrate into our tools.

Update: Per This Week at Bungie, there will be an in-game framerate counter and background hardware monitors will still be able to gather framerate data. We'll be excited to see both in action.

August Recommendations Update

The graphics card market remains very expensive, in some cases $100 over MSRP. This is due to the surge in cryptocurrency prices. It is unclear if or when supply will be able to get prices back to the intended retail pricepoints, but for that reason, you would be well-served to wait until closer to the launch of the game in October for prices to stabilize. For our purposes, we’ll list current cost and the MSRP cost.

$536 - Bungie Minimum Spec

This is a build based around the minimum spec Destiny provides. As you can see based on its performance in other games, we anticipate framerates above 1080p30. Cost-wise, the consoles both beat it out handily at less than $300 each, so PC remains an expensive way to play Destiny 2.

The G4560 is arguably the best performance per dollar processor on the market, but to get the most out of it, it is worth investing in a B250 motherboard that enables you to step up to 2400 MHz RAM. We could save some money (~$20) there, but the performance boost is really worth it.

Performance Prediction:

1080p 30 fps at High Settings

Component Name Amazon NewEgg MSRP
CPU Intel Pentium G4560 $81 $86 $64
GPU NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 $110 $110 $110
Memory 8 GB DDR4 2400 MHz $70 N/A N/A
Motherboard ASRock B250M-HDV MicroATX $86 $60 $60
Storage Western Digital Caviar Green 500GB 7200 rpm $27 N/A $27
Power Supply EVGA 430 W1 $35 $35 $30
Chassis Xion Performance mATX $33 $70 $33
Lowest Hardware Cost $416 $394
OS Windows 10 Home 64 bit $110 $100 N/A
Input Cooler Master Devastator II $25 $20 N/A
System Cost $536 $514

$575 - Cheapest Destiny 2 1080p60 Build

If you take a jump from the 1050 to 1050 Ti, you’re within range of 60 fps. Yes, our own predictor says you’re going to be just under 60 fps, but that’s measured at an Ultra settings. By dialing back to Medium or maybe even High, you could expect a 60 fps average.

Meanwhile, we left the CPU as their minimum spec. It seems weird that the minimum CPU would be able to do 60 fps, but given that the G4560 put up 100+ fps in Battlefield 1, we would be shocked if it were the bottleneck here.

Component Name Amazon NewEgg MSRP
CPU Intel Pentium G4560 $81 $86 $64
GPU NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti $149 $155 $140
Memory 8 GB DDR4 2400 MHz $70 N/A N/A
Motherboard ASRock B250M-HDV MicroATX $86 $60 $60
Storage Western Digital Caviar Green 500GB 7200 rpm $27 N/A $27
Power Supply EVGA 430 W1 $35 $35 $30
Chassis Xion Performance mATX $33 $70 $33
Lowest Hardware Cost $455 $424
OS Windows 10 Home 64 bit $110 $100 N/A
Input Cooler Master Devastator II $25 $20 N/A
System Cost $575 $544

$729 - Xbox One X Competitor

Platform Price
Xbox One X $543
Build MSRP $658
Current Build Price $729

Again, Microsoft is really delivering a lot of horsepower with the Xbox One . This build delivers similar performance but at $100 markup. We first detailed this build last month, following the announcement of the Xbox One X. We have changed the AMD Radeon RX 580 for a GTX 1060. The RX 580 supply is gone thanks to cryptocurrencies, and the GTX 1060 performs admirably in its place. Expect framerates above 30 fps at 4K.

Performance Prediction:

2160p (4k) 30 fps at Ultra Settings

Component Name Amazon NewEgg MSRP
CPU Intel Pentium G4560 $81 $86 $64
GPU NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 $280 $289 $225
Memory 8 GB DDR4 2400 MHz $72 N/A N/A
Motherboard ASRock B250M-HDV MicroATX $86 $60 $60
Storage Western Digital Caviar Green 500GB 7200 rpm $27 N/A $27
Power Supply EVGA 600 B1 $56 $69 N/A
Chassis Xion Performance mATX $33 $70 $33
Lowest Hardware Cost $609 $537
OS Windows 10 Home 64 bit $110 $100 N/A
Input Cooler Master Devastator II $25 $20 $N/A
System Cost $729 $657

$972 - Bungie Recommended Spec

Here, we dropped Bungie’s recommended specs into a build. Our performance predictor shows this to be a 1080p60 system, which would make sense for the developer’s “recommended” setting.

We actually don’t recommend this system, as the Core i5–7400 has been overshadowed by AMD’s offerings, but we wanted to show what Bungie's exact specs look like.

The GTX 1060 is still selling above its nominal price at $260 compared to MSRP of $225, but it’s still a far better deal at the moment than any RX 480 or 580. We also upgraded from the 500 GB HDD to an 500 GB SSD.

Performance Prediction:

1080p 60 fps at High/Ultra settings

Component Name Amazon NewEgg MSRP
CPU Intel Core i5-7400 $185 $190 $185
GPU NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 $280 $289 $225
Memory 8 GB DDR4 2400 MHz $72 N/A N/A
Motherboard ASRock B250M-HDV MicroATX $86 $60 $60
Storage 500 GB 2.5" SSD $150 $150 $150
Power Supply Corsair CX Series 450 W 80+ Bronze $59 $60 $60
Chassis Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 $49 $46 $46
Lowest Hardware Cost $852 $798
OS Windows 10 Home 64 bit $110 $100 N/A
Input Cooler Master Devastator II $25 $20 N/A
System Cost $972 $918

$991 - Amdahl Cube Recommended 1080p60 Build

If Bungie’s recommending a Core i5–7400, the Ryzen 5 1500X outperforms it at the same price, and it can be overclocked to provide even more performance. We juiced the memory here up to 3000 MHz, driving framerates further up, and we moved to a slightly better designed chassis. This is what we recommend to our friends looking to get into Destiny 2.

Performance Prediction:

1080p 60 fps at High/Ultra Settings

Component Name Amazon NewEgg Fair Price
CPU AMD Ryzen 5 1500X $189 $190 $190
GPU NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 $280 $289 $225
Memory 8 GB DDR4 3000 MHz $84 N/A N/A
Motherboard ASRock B250M-HDV MicroATX $86 $60 $60
Storage 500 GB 2.5" SSD $150 $150 $150
Power Supply EVGA 600 B1 Power Supply $56 $45 $45
Chassis Corsair Carbide Series 200R Mid Tower Case $63 $70 $55
Lowest Hardware Cost $871 $809
OS Windows 10 Home 64 bit $110 $100 N/A
Input Cooler Master Devastator II $25 $20 N/A
System Cost $991 $929

$1,510—1080p144 Build

144 fps has been championed by eSports competitors and shooter fans, as every frame counts. This is decidedly the high end, where gamers willing to invest more get picky about increased resolutions and/or framerates. 144 fps is the smoothest framerate available on most AAA games, and this build is intended to deliver it consistently. This is top of the line, and we only recently changed out the 1070 for a 1080 that’s available at $499 ahead of the launch of Vega 64 (AMD’s recently announced but unreleased graphics card lineup). The Core i7–7700K is necessary to get the framerate cap above 144.

Note this is the rare case where these parts are selling below MSRP! Definitely a good value.

We added a 144 Hz G-Sync monitor to the configurator for the type of monitor you’d need that isn’t included in the price listed here, as well as a Corsair H110i for a cooling solution as the Core i7–7700K does not come with one in the box.

Performance Prediction:

1080p 144 fps at Ultra settings

Component Name Amazon NewEgg MSRP
CPU Intel Core i7-7700K $309 $340 $340
Thermal Solution Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $110 $99 $101
GPU NVIDIA GTX 1080 $500 $540 $540
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 3000MHz $84 $84 $84
Motherboard GIGABYTE GA-Z270M-D3H $120 $122 $120
Storage Western Digital Blue 500 GB 2.5" SATA SSD $150 $150 $150
Power Supply EVGA 600 B1 Power Supply $47 $50 $47
Chassis NZXT S340 Mid Tower Computer Case $70 $86 $60
Lowest Hardware Cost $1,390 $1,442
OS Windows 10 Home 64 bit $110 $100 N/A
Input Cooler Master Devastator II $25 $20 N/A
System Cost $1,510 $1,562

$1,247—1440p60 Build

This is effectively unchanged from our previous recommendation. 1440p60 is a definitive step above 1080p, but the cost starts to rise quickly. Regardless, the 1500X and GTX 1070 are a great combo for powering 1440p. We’d recommend this for both traditional widescreen gaming as well as ultra-wide gaming, though stepping up to a GTX 1080 would likely provide a more consistent 60 fps.

Important Note: AMD announced a new line of high-end graphics cards, dubbed Vega, targeted at this segment launching August 14. The initial reports have been underwhelming, and they’re expected to see high-demand from cryptocurrency miners. However, we still advise patience and seeing those parts in action before making a huge investment here.

Performance Prediction:

1440p 90 fps at Ultra settings

Component Name Amazon NewEgg MSRP
CPU AMD Ryzen 5 1500X $189 $190 $190
GPU NVIDIA GTX 1070 $416 $450 $410
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3000MHz $148 $160 $127
Motherboard ASRock AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX $107 $136 $110
Storage Western Digital Blue 500 GB 2.5" SATA SSD $150 $150 $150
Power Supply EVGA 600 B1 Power Supply $47 $50 $47
Chassis NZXT S340 Mid Tower Computer Case $70 $86 $60
Lowest Hardware Cost $1,127 $1,094
OS Windows 10 Home 64 bit $110 $100 N/A
Input Cooler Master Devastator II $25 $20 N/A
System Cost $1,247 $1,214

$1,900—Bungie's Event Machine Build

This rig uses Bungie’s specs from their rigs that ran Destiny 2 at 4k at all of their events. The core elements are an Intel Core i7–7700K and a GTX 1080 Ti. From a platform view, you’re spending a minimum of $1,379 for the base components (CPU, GPU, memory, RAM). We kitted this one out with more memory, a higher-end motherboard, and a water cooled thermal solution to maximize performance.

Included in the configurator but not the price listed is an LG 2160p monitor that’s under $300. 4K panels are getting very affordable, but the hardware to power them is still very high end.

Performance Prediction:

2160p 100 fps at Ultra settings

Component Name Amazon NewEgg Fair Price
CPU Intel Core i7-7700K $309 $340 $340
Thermal Solution Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $110 $99 $101
GPU NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti $709 $720 $720
Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3000MHz $148 $160 $127
Motherboard MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Carbon $165 $165 $165
Storage Western Digital Blue 500 GB 2.5" SATA SSD $150 $150 $150
Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2 $90 $105 $88
Chassis NZXT H440 Mid Tower Computer Case $126 $110 $110
Lowest Hardware Cost $1,780 $1,801
OS Windows 10 Home 64 bit $93 $100 $93
Input Cooler Master Devastator II $25 $25 $25
System Cost $1,900 $1,921

Monitor Recommendations

We were asked for a few monitor recommendations. I will list our recommendations by resolution as well as FreeSync and G-SYNC model. I use a G-SYNC monitor and think it makes a huge difference if you have the budget.

1080p

Price Name Size Max Refresh Rate Adaptive Refresh
$142 Asus VS238H-P 23" 60 None
$166 Asus VG245H 24" 75 FreeSync
$234 Asus VG248QE 24" 144 None
$399 Acer XB241H 24" 144 G-SYNC

1440p

Price Name Size Max Refresh Rate Adaptive Refresh
$380 Asus PB278Q 27" 60 None
$600 Asus MG279Q 27" 144 FreeSync
$630 Asus PG278QR 27" 165 G-SYNC
$405 Dell Gaming S2417DG 24" 165 G-SYNC

2160p (4K)

Price Name Size Max Refresh Rate Adaptive Refresh
$297 LG 24UD58-B 24" 60 FreeSync
$400 Asus PB287Q 28" 60 None
$880 Asus ROG Swift PG27AQ 27" 60 G-SYNC

Wrapping Up

Again, we wanted to provide a snapshot of value. As a reminder, we do this by assuming every system is just a black box spitting out pixels. For a system to spit out 1080p60, it would have to deliver 1920 * 1080 * 60 pixels/second. The result of that is our y-axis, which we plot against price on the x-axis. Note that we took out display costs so it’s a pure look at hardware, and we are using our own performance predictions for what the average would be for the “consistent 60 fps” builds. I also guessed that the PS4 Pro would run at 2560144030, but we don’t have evidence one way or another yet.

Diagram: http://imgur.com/yWZWzF4

We see the real value of the Xbox One X as a 4k30 machine versus what a native 4k60 machine costs, and the generally linear scaling of price and performance. Also take note that the Bungie recommended spec comes in ahead of even the Xbox One X — they’re aiming high on PC apparently.

Happy beta Guardians!

As per usual, I'm happy to answer any questions. Special thanks to u/etski for giving me some feedback on this. I'd also invite you to hit me up on Twitter or Facebook if that's more convenient. Most posts are either updates to our tool or some new analysis, but we're always down to just talk tech.

submitted by AmdahlCube to DestinyTechSupport [link] [comments]

My huge amount of GTA:O Ideas (i'm sorry)

These are just Ideas you might not like some you might love some the updates, titles, game modes are all just Ideas

MISCELLANEOUS UPDATES/ FEATURES/ FIXES

MILITARY UPDATE

[INSERT DECADE HERE] UPDATE

CLASSIC VINEWOOD UPDATE

OVERKILL UPDATE

LUCK, SKILL AND STOCK UPDATE

THE LEGAL BUISNESS UPDATE

THE ILLEGAL BUISNESS UPDATE

OPEN SEASON UPDATE


THE HIT UPDATE

OPEN FOR BUISNESS / EXPANDED MAP UPDATE

THE BIGGER RIG UPDATE


If you like these ideas I’m sorry. Unless you work at Rockstar, if you work at Rockstar make whichever ones you like!
submitted by Pielord10 to gtaonline [link] [comments]

My massive dump of GTA update ideas (i'm sorry)

These are just Ideas you might not like some you might love some the updates, titles, game modes are all just Ideas

MISCELLANEOUS UPDATES/ FEATURES/ FIXES

MILITARY UPDATE

[INSERT DECAEDE HERE] UPDATE

CLASSIC VINEWOOD UPDATE

OVERKILL UPDATE

LUCK, SKILL AND STOCK UPDATE

THE LEGAL BUISNESS UPDATE

THE ILLEGAL BUISNESS UPDATE

OPEN SEASON UPDATE


THE HIT UPDATE

OPEN FOR BUISNESS / EXPANDED MAP UPDATE

THE BIGGER RIG UPDATE


If you like these ideas I’m sorry. Unless you work at Rockstar, if you work at Rockstar make whichever ones you like!
submitted by Pielord10 to GTAV [link] [comments]

My wishlist for GTA (sorry)

These are just Ideas you might not like some you might love some the updates, titles, game modes are all just Ideas

MISCELLANEOUS UPDATES/ FEATURES/ FIXES

MILITARY UPDATE

[INSERT DECADE HERE] UPDATE

CLASSIC VINEWOOD UPDATE

OVERKILL UPDATE

LUCK, SKILL AND STOCK UPDATE

THE LEGAL BUISNESS UPDATE

THE ILLEGAL BUISNESS UPDATE

OPEN SEASON UPDATE


THE HIT UPDATE

OPEN FOR BUISNESS / EXPANDED MAP UPDATE

THE BIGGER RIG UPDATE


If you like these ideas I’m sorry. Unless you work at Rockstar, if you work at Rockstar make whichever ones you like!
submitted by Pielord10 to GrandTheftAutoV_PC [link] [comments]

are gta slot machines rigged video

HOW TO PLAY SLOT MACHINES PROPERLY !! - YouTube 4 Tips And Tricks CONFIRMED To Beat A RIGGED Claw Machine ... Gta V HORSE RACING!!!!!RIGGED!?!?!? - YouTube *UNLIMITED MONEY GLITCH* UNLIMITED $2,500,000 SLOT MACHINE ... GTA Online But With Rigged Slot Machines ECT... - YouTube Are casino table games rigged? Info from a dealer - YouTube How to Trick a Slot Machine - Secrets to How the ... Casino Slot Machine Manipulation Is Totally Possible - YouTube How to Win at Slots - Interview With a Professional Slot ...

gta online slot machine win mit Onlinebanking ist immer mobil, ohne dass es jemand merkt. Schlussendlich ist es also nutzlos sich mit Dosierungen oder Zukunftsprognosen herumzuschlagen, ohne über sämtliche Einzelheiten auf dem Laufenden zu sein. Nebenwirkungen des Produkts gta online slot machine win mit Onlinebanking. Wie schon angesprochen, wurzelt gta online slot machine win mit GTA Online's slot machines are rigged and the NPCs are winning all the damn money. By Christopher Livingston August 06, 2019. A scientific survey of the AI-controlled gamblers shows they're always... So Rockstar is ripping off the community, I had about 5 games of blackjack last night have the dealers card switch to a winning hand after they were already revealed on the table, I've had 3 slot machines stop announce my prize then roll once more and I get nothing.. this game needs to be fixed... at this point I feel that Rockstar is using the casino as an attempt to CULL the modded money Are GTA Online Slot Machines Rigged? Are Odds Visible Somehow? November 24, 2019 Simon Plumbe Articles, Headlines 0. If you’ve been to the Diamond Casino in GTA Online, you probably tried to play some of its games. It’s a stylish casino with lots of slots; blackjack, baccarat and poker games. Despite that, there’s a big issue in the establishment. The games, more so slots, seem rigged

are gta slot machines rigged top

[index] [788] [7594] [8905] [7233] [5918] [5271] [6388] [7301] [4303] [2642]

HOW TO PLAY SLOT MACHINES PROPERLY !! - YouTube

About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features Press Copyright Contact us Creators ... GRAND THEFT AUTO Vhttps://store.playstation.com/#!/en-us/tid=CUSA00419_00 *unlimited money glitch* unlimited $2,500,000 slot machine wins! (gta 5 casino unlimited money)*unlimited money glitch* unlimited $2,500,000 slot machine win... Click on the link below to learn the most valuable skill in Internet Marketing! http://bit.ly/2D2WflGHey in the video I want to talk about how to trick a slo... 10 Secrets Casinos Don't Want You to Know. Subscribe for more amazing videos! http://bit.ly/Subscribe-to-Richest Casinos are multi-million dollar business... Discord Server: discord.gg/ftEUktayA5Tiktok: @daar Steve and Matt Bourie, from the American Casino Guide, interview professional slots player, Peter Liston. Peter is the author of "Million Dollar Slots" and h... WE ARE CLOSING IN ON 200k!!!Hey Guys! Thanks for watching! If you enjoyed this video, give this video a big like by smashing the thumbs up button 👍🏼 and s... DON’T FORGET TO SHARE AND LIKE THE VIDEO EVERYONE!Kazzy's Twitter: https://twitter.com/kazzyofficial?lang=enKazzy's Snapchat: KAZZYOFFICIALKazzy's Instagram:...

are gta slot machines rigged

Copyright © 2024 top.playbestrealmoneygame.xyz